If you have purchased one of these you know (as I do now) that you have entered an entirely new realm in digital camera complexity. This camera is overloaded with options, features and customization (a good thing in moderation, but a nightmare when done without purpose).
Creating a Giant Cheat Sheet: The best way for me to wrap my head around this complex system was to create my own personal cheat sheet. The slow and methodical writing down of information helps a lot (at least helps me). With that said I have created a step by step breakdown of every menu item within the OM-D EM1 Mark II. What you see below was developed in part by watching various training videos, reading a lot of articles on this camera and spending much time examining each an every function of this camera, playing with it until I could make sense of how it was used.
Note that this information is provided as an outline rather than an article allowing myself (and you) to more quickly search for what you need.. It is meant to be a reference guide that will fill in all those gaps which should have been provided in a comprehensive Olympus documentation (but is not).
Each menu item and sub-item menu (and sub-sub and sub-sub-sub menus) is listed. Notes about compatibility, usage, pros/cons, general tips, and just plain “what the hell is this for in the first place?” accompany each menu item. Some items have a lot of information while some items are self explanatory and will have no additional information. Just depends how confusing a particular option is and how much I was able to decipher.
I wrote this for myself to use not for the general population to read so please excuse its imperfect grammar and such. Nonetheless, I believe everyone who reads this will gain a great deal of insight about how to set up and customize the options found within the Olympus OM-D E-M1 MARKII .
TIPS:
- I would recommend that you copy and paste this whole outline into a word doc / PDF and just drop it on your phone so you can access a reference guide when shooting in the field.
- Do you learn better with VIDEO TRAINING? If so then much of the information you find here can be found in the Olympus® OM-D E-M1 Mark II Fast Start tutorial video from Creative Live. Additionally this video class discusses other topics related to the OMD EM M2 besides just the menu system as covered in this article. Using this menu documentation in conjunction with the video will have you up and running in no time flat.
Olympus OM-D E-M1 MARK II Menu Documentation
* All menu options in “GREEN” are my own personal selections which I am using on my camera. While every photographer has different needs, I have put a lot of thought into these selections based on years of experience as a photographer. So if you don’t know what you should choose then just pick the options I have in green and that should at least get you started. You can always make changes later.
Shooting Menu 1:
- Reset/Custom Modes
- Reset “basic” – just exposure and focus info “full everything.
- Assign custom modes
- Set up the camera
- Then enter this menu and assign the mode to c1,2,or 3
- Most important things to consider for a custom modes. You won’t necessarily need all of them set, but it really depends on what the custom mode is being used for.
- Exposure mode
- Shutter Speed
- Aperture
- ISO
- Exposure Compensation
- White Balance
- Focus
- Focus Area
- Drive mode
- And then don’t forget other things like display options and stabilization, etc (think Macro shooting).
- Picture Mode:
- All the jpg filters.
- Image Quality: RAW, JPG (various levels of quality) or RAW + JPG
- Image aspect ratio
- Changes the dimensions of the captured image file
- 4:3 (native) – this option will provide you with the most resolution as the others are only crops of the this size.
- 3:4
- 1:1
- 3:2 (what most people are used to with their cameras)
- 16:9 (“wide screen or cinema)
- Digital Tele-Converter
- Digitally crops image to give the impression of zoom.
- Note that this results in loss of resolution and can be done just as easily and with more precision in post production.
- Recommend not to use.
- Interval Shooting and Time-lapse
- Adjust setting for sequential shooting, self timer shooting and interval shooting.
- Sequential and Time Settings:
- This is the same thing as your drive mode options found through your on camera “drive mode” button.
- This is not the place to make these changes, far easier to just use the direct access button (see “Buttons”)
- Interval Sh /Time Lapse:
- Number of frames
- Start waiting time: how long between shutter press and start of images.
- Interval length: time between photos.
- Time lapse movie: records finished movie in camera. Still gives you the individual photos as well.
- Movie resolution is only full HD at 15, HD at 30 and 4K at 5/fps
Shooting Menu 2:
- Bracketing: NOTE: that you will almost always be using either Focus stacking or focus bracketing. So basically you can set for one or the other and then just turn the top level “bracketing on/off” instead of everything in the menu… Have not tested this, but I think it should work.
- AE Bkt: bracket exposures: use with A, S or P
- WB bkt: white balance bracket.
- Fl Bkt: Flash bracketing
- ISO Bkt: ISO
- ART bkt: art filter bracketing,, does 1 photo gives you all options.
- Focus Bkt: focus stacking – !!!
- Only works with specific Olympus lenses
- 60mm f/2.8 macro
- 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro
- 40-150mm f/2.8 Pro
- 30mm f/3.5 Macro
- 7-14mm f/2.8 Pro
- 8mm f/1.8 Fisheye Pro
- 300mm f/4 IS Pro
- Focus Stacking: Found INSIDE “Focus BKT” menu.
- # of shots
- Set focus differential : difference in distance between each photo
- Charge time: wait period between photos for flash charge time.
- Must press OK to keep stacking on.
- NOTE: is will crop the image some so always leave enough space on the sides (most likely due to alignment issues just like in PS).
- Only works with specific Olympus lenses
Video Menu:
- Mode: (M, A, S, P) – P will let the camera take care of most things for you.
- Specification Settings:
- Quality:
- Resolutions and frames/sec
- Not all frame rates are available at all resolutions
- MOV file will be best quality.
- 30 NTSC is the American norm.
- 24 is “movie” frame rate like cinema.
- Custom Movie settings (lets you pick specifics .. Probably not something you want/need to do).
- Use “info” to jump around and change settings when in movie viewing on the back of camera.
- Noise Filter: Standard – basically reduces noise by “x” amount.
- Picture Mode:
- On/off – OFF means you can use picture settings (filters). ON means you cannot use. (OPPOSITE of what makes sense).. Better check to ensure they did not fix this in an update.
- Quality:
- AF/IS Settings
- AF Mode: C-AF All the various focus modes you’ll find in still shots
- Image Stabilizer:
- M-IS-1 : slightly crops image, but both physically and digitally stabilizes.. So best stabilization.
- M-IS-2: sensor shift only, no cropping.
- Button/Dial Lever: (I have not figured out my choices yet for this)
- Customization of buttons changes when in Movie mode vs still pictures.
- FN Lever Function
- Shutter Function: Can reassign shutter button to start/stop movies.. Usually just acts as focus during movies.
- Elec. Zoom Speed:
- Customization of buttons changes when in Movie mode vs still pictures.
- Display Settings: what’s displayed in EVF and LCD during movies.
- Live Super Control Panel: full the frame and covers your view
- Live Control: allows you to see your frame at the same time.
- If you keep both options checked you can hit “info” to switch between the two options.
- Info Settings: What all do you see when viewing displays.
- Time Code Settings:
- Time Code Mode: Drop frame: compensates for the 29.x speed actual vs the 30 fps they call it.
- Count UP: How the camera shows time of movie.
- Starting Time
- Display Pattern: Time left in recording (% or min.)
- Movie sound:
- Volume
- Volume limiter: dampens loud sound.
- Wind noise reduction.
- Plugin Power
- PCM recorder: external recorders
- Slate Tone
- Synchronized Recorder
- Headphone volume.
- HDMI output.
- Output mode: monitor mode vs recording mode.
- REC bit: turn external device start/stop along with camera.
Playback Menu:
- Sideshow: used to display a slideshow on an external device with the camera.
- Multiple options available with intervals, what slides, music, etc.
- Rotate: automatically rotates images automatically. Nice for external slideshow, but bad for viewing vertical images on your camera as it will show them smaller in the LCD.
- Leave off if you want larger vertical images during LCD playback.
- Edit: Allows editing of photos in camera.
- Print Order: printing “in the field”
- Reset Protect: Allows you to “bulk” unlock or lock images which may have been locked
- Copy All : allows you to copy images from one card to another (either direction). Think of it maybe as an after the fact backup option.
- Connection to Smart Phone:
- Phone: must download Olympus app (Olympus image share).
- Step 1: In camera go to connection to smart phone and turn “on” > you should see connection info on back of LCD
- Step 2: go to your phone’s wi-fi connection and connect with camera wi-fi “E-M1 MIKII…….”
- Using the connection info now displayed on back of camera LCD enter password
- Note: you will not see “internet connection” … it’s just between phone and camera.
Custom Menu:
A1 AF/MF:
- AF Mode: (covered in on camera settings)
- AEL/AFL:
- S-AF – various options here, but #3 is “back button focus”.
- C-AF – various options here, but #3 is “back button focus”.
- MF – various options here, but #3 is “back button focus”.
- AF Scanner: used for long focal length lenses to control how much the camera will search to get focus before giving up.
- Mode1: AF not activated.
- Mode2: Scan front to back once
- Mode3: Scans continuously.
- C-AF Lock: Controls the tracking sensitivity of c-af
- Loose +2 to Tight -2
- Mine default on “0”
- This is simply going to take practice to figure out the best options.
- AF Limiter – On/OFF
- sub-settings only available if AF limiter set to “on”
- Distance Settings: Limits the distances that AF will attempt to search. This will speed up focus.
- Good for macro or product if you must us AF.
- Priority Release : allows you to shoot a photo even if not in focus OFF/ON
- AF Settings (all the icons):
- Allows you to turn on/off all the various AF settings so you can remove all the options from the on camera menus that you don’t use.
- My default all “on”
- AF Area Pointer’s
- Options for AF area pointer in viewfinder.
- Green box (focused indicator) blinks once when focused
- Green box stays on when focused.
- No green box.
- Options for AF area pointer in viewfinder.
A2 AF/MF:
- AF Targeting Pad: ON/OFF
- Allows you to use the LCD to move AF point even when using the EVF.
- Can be an issue if your nose tends to touch the screen when shooting.
- Set Home: Allows you to set three parameters (AF mod, focus point size, and focus point location on grid) you can then assign this “home” option to a button if you wish to activate as needed.
- Seems like a great idea that has been hobbled with lack of options to me.
- Custom Settings: allow modifications to AF controls dials and buttons. Most importantly here is the ability to change switch from using the “arrow pad” to move focus point location to using front and back dials to move the focus point location. Some people may like this option. If you use this option you can then change face detection and focus point group size using the up/down on the arrow pad.
- AF Illuminator: ON/OFF
- Illuminator used to cast some light onto subject when AF is difficult.
- Face Priority (various options) my default “OFF”
- This option better accessed when using the AF location grid and options than through the menu.
- AF Focus Adj. Helps you to fix focus adjustments for various types of lenses (best used with old lenses and 3rd party, etc).
- Preset MF distance: Camera will automatically start focus at distance “x”. (estimated, not actual distance).
- MF Assist:
- Magnifying: ON/OFF – Camera will auto zoom to 5x during MF to help you establish focus.
- Olympus lenses (some) have a push/pull focus ring which will automatically engage MF
- The magnification will occur as soon as you turn the MF ring.
- You can either press a button or wait about 1 second after turning MF ring for image to revert to the full view.
- Peaking: ON/OFF Shows colors on the edges of objects identifying the areas which are in focus
- Magnifying: ON/OFF – Camera will auto zoom to 5x during MF to help you establish focus.
- MF Clutch: Turn ON/OFF the ability to switch to manual focus by push/pull the focus ring.
- Focus Ring: Change the direction of focus ring movement.
- Normal
- “Nikon”
- Bulb/Time Focusing: ON/OFF
- Do you want to be able to MF camera during bulb/time focusing.
- Reset Lens: ON/OFF – Lens will focus back to its default distance when camera is turned off. Use OFF to just let the lens stay focused wherever it was left when camera is turned off.
B Button /Dial/Lever::
- Button Function (let’s you assign function to all customizable buttons.
- PGH lock (power booster holder) ie: the grip…. ON/OFF
- Turns off the arrows control on camera when using grip.
- Dial Function: Changes how dials work in each shooting mode (P,A,S,M, playback) + lever 1,2
- Dial Direction:
- exposure direction. Dial 2 (makes dial same direction as exposure meter)
- PS : program shift mode (sync to the direction of shutter speed or aperture)
- FN Lever Settings:
- Lever Functions: position 1 & 2 options (I have lever used for camera ON/OFF so it’s greyed out).
- Off
- Mode 1: Normal operation
- Mode 2: Preset AF modes / area
- Mode 3: normal / movie shooting
- Switch Function (changes features provided by the split circular button
- Changes how the switch button work (top of camera far left attached to power switch)
- OFF – HDR/Drive and AF/Metering
- ON – BKT/Exp. Bracketing and Flash EXp. Comp./Flash
- Changes how the switch button work (top of camera far left attached to power switch)
- Lever Functions: position 1 & 2 options (I have lever used for camera ON/OFF so it’s greyed out).
- FN Lever/Power Lever: ON/OFF –
- FN – assigned FN lever to whatever you choose above.
- Power 1: assigns power to FN lever. Position 1 on / position 2 off: Power lever is disabled.
- Power 2: assigns power to FN lever. Position 1 OFF/ position 2 ON: power lever is disabled.
- Elec. Zoom Speed: Affects only power zooms, and of interest mostly to videographers.
C1 Drive & Release:
- Rls Priority S: ON/OFF What is shutter release priority when in single servo focus mode. Can camera fire if not in focus.
- Rls Priority C: ON/OF What is shutter release priority when in continuous server focus mode. Can camera fire if not in focus.
- Drive Settings L & H ( control number of frames for various drive modes and also the maximum number of photos during a single press.
|
Item |
Speed |
Shutter |
Shown as |
Factory |
My Settings |
||||
|
Rate |
Pre |
Max |
Rate |
Pre |
Max |
||||
|
C1.3.1 |
Low |
– |
|
10 |
– |
Off |
8 |
– |
OFF |
|
Steady |
|||||||||
|
C1.3.2 |
Silent |
|
10 |
– |
Off |
8 |
– |
OFF |
|
|
C1.3.3 |
Pro Capture |
18 |
8 |
25 |
10 |
14 |
OFF |
||
|
C1.4.1 |
High |
– |
|
15 |
– |
Off |
15 |
– |
60 |
|
Steady |
|||||||||
|
C1.4.2 |
Silent |
|
60 |
– |
Off |
15 |
– |
60 |
|
|
C1.4.3 |
Pro Capture |
60 |
14 |
25 |
15 |
12 |
60 |
C2 Release / Drive / Image stabilizer
- Image Stabilizer:
- Same as used on Super control panel
- Off
- S-IS Auto — detects panning and disables the appropriate component of IS
- S-IS 1 — always applies IS to both components
- S-IS 2 — for panning along the longer frame dimension
- S-IS 3 — for panning along the shorter frame dimension
- Image Stabilization:
- Fps Priority – stabilization will be compromised to ensure fps as specified.
- IS Priority – stabilization is priority over fps.
- Half Way Rls With IS – ON/OFF
- When shutter pressed half way stabilization is activated (helps to hold image still when composing).
- Lens IS Priority: ON/OFF
- Uses lens stabilization instead of cameras.
- Only applicable to Non-Olympus lenses
D1 Display / beeps / PC
- Control Settings – what interfaces do we see when you press “OK” button.
- If more than one option is selected then you must click the “INFO” button to toggle between displays when “OK” is pressed.
- I-auto – LIVE SCP, Live Guide, Live Control
- M,A,S,P – LIVE SCP, Live Guide, Live Control
- Art – LIVE SCP, Live Control, Live ART
- Info Settings – what is displayed when you press “info”
- Playback Mode
- Image Only – photo with some extra info
- Overall – photo with shadow/highlights, exposure info and full color histograms
- Histogram – tone histogram only
- Highlight/Shadow – full size image with H/S
- Lightbox – used to compare images.
- Magnify view –
- Magnify Frame (zooming with dials and arrows)
- Magnify scroll (zooming with touch screen and dials) Can zoom in using back dial / move around using touch screen.
- Select frame
- LV-Info – use “info” button to toggle custom1 and 2. (I believe this effects both LCD and EVF – see menu “I”
- The camera is going to show you LV with basic exposure info no matter what you choose.
- My setting: turn off custom 2 completely. Turn on
- Image Only – no information
- Custom 1 – as selected.
- Image Only
- Histogram
- Level Gauge
- Custom 2 – as selected.
- Image Only
- Histogram
- Level Gauge
- Thumbnail/Calendar Settings for group display of images.
- 4, 9, 25, 100, my clips, calendar
- Playback Mode
- Picture Mode Settings:
- Turn on/off all the picture modes (filters).
- Drive mode / Timer Settings
- Check on/off any drive modes or timer options that you wish to display in the drive menu when using camera.
- Multi Function Settings:
- Turn ON/OFF various options within this function.
- Color Creator
- ISO/WB
- WB/ISO
- Magnify
- Image Aspect
- S-OVF
- Peaking
D2 Display / beeps / PC
- Live View Boost
- Manual (M,A,S,P) Shooting Boost – Affects both EVF and LCD
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- In this mode the viewfinder will be very dark (just like a regular dslr).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- On2 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing with slow frame rates used if needed to provide a bright enough viewfinder image.
- In low light conditions this can cause blurring/smearing of the image when panning.
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- In this mode the viewfinder will be very dark (just like a regular dslr).
- OFF – allows you to see the exposure as it will be in your final image.
- Will make image very dark if using a flash as your primary method of lighting your subject (think product/macro work in studio).
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Bulb/Time:
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- In this mode the viewfinder will be very dark (just like a regular dslr).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- On2 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing with slow frame rates used if needed to provide a bright enough viewfinder image.
- In low light conditions this can cause blurring/smearing of the image when panning.
- Since I will certainly be on a tripod when using bulb/time I don’t need to worry about the slow frame rate.
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Live Composite:
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- In this mode the viewfinder will be very dark (just like a regular dslr).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- On2 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing with slow frame rates used if needed to provide a bright enough viewfinder image.
- In low light conditions this can cause blurring/smearing of the image when panning.
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- In this mode the viewfinder will be very dark (just like a regular dslr).
- OFF – allows you to see the exposure as it will be in your final image.
- You will want to select OFF if you wish to actually see the composite build up.
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Others:
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- In this mode the viewfinder will be very dark (just like a regular dslr).
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- On2 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing with slow frame rates used if needed to provide a bright enough viewfinder image.
- In low light conditions this can cause blurring/smearing of the image when panning.
- Use this when doing studio work (especially product or macro) where you are lighting the subject with a flash.
- In this mode the viewfinder will be very dark (just like a regular dslr).
- OFF – allows you to see the exposure as it will be in your final image.
- You will want to select OFF if you wish to actually see the composite build up.
- On1 – LV will NOT reflect actual exposure and will be adjusted for optimal viewing (does not use slow frame rates so may appear darker than ON2).
- Manual (M,A,S,P) Shooting Boost – Affects both EVF and LCD
- Art LV Mode
- Mode 1 – displays the filter while in LV
- Mode 2 – displays with a lightened version of filter
- Frame Rate:
- Normal – slower frame rate / better battery performance.
- Consider this for landscape, studio, maybe travel (to keep that battery going).
- High – useful for action photography for smoother view / lower battery performance.
- Normal – slower frame rate / better battery performance.
- LV Close UP Mode
- Mode 1: When shutter is pressed halfway the enlarged live view ends and enlargement frame will display.
- Mode 2: When shutter is pressed halfway, auto focus will work while in the enlarged live view.
- Live View Boost
- ON – During LV close-up, brightness is adjusted for easy confirmation of focus.
- OFF – No boosting of brightness.
- DOF preview settings
- Lock:
- ON – press to turn on, press to turn off (Toggle)
- OFF – press and hold
- Live view boost:
- ON – brightens image when stopped down.
- OFF – does not
- Lock:
- Flicker Reduction – reduce flicker caused by florescent lighting. If auto does not work, try the others.
- Auto, 50Hz, 60Hz, OFF
D3 Display / beeps / PC
- Grid Settings –
- Display Color – customize grid colors / opacities
- Displayed Grid – which grid do you want.
- Apply Settings of EVF –
- ON – in EVF and LCD
- OFF – only on LCD (can apply a different grid to EVF from another menu: “I – EVF grid setting”)
- Peaking:
- Peaking Color
- Highlight intensity
- Image Brightness Adjustment (boost) ON/OFF
- Histogram Settings
- Adjust the highlights and shadow numbers that activate “blinkies”
- I am using 250 / 5
- Mode Guide
- Turns ON/OFF the menu help tips.
- OR just leave on and then toggle with “info” to keep them off.
- Selfie Assist
- ON/OFF
- Flips image on screen when you turn the LCD around to view from the other direction.
- I don’t do selfies, but it doesn’t hurt anything either so may find another use for it.
D3 Display / beeps / PC
- HDMI
- Output size: output size (1080p)
- Output frame rate: (60 priority)
- HDMI control – allows external device to control camera. Like TV remote
- Beep: ON/OFF focus acquisition beep
- USB Mode: Options which appear when the camera detects an outside connection by USB
- I’ve always found this appears automatically so see no need to select something specific (just leave on Auto unless it gets it wrong)
E1 Exposure / ISO / Bulb / Metering
- Exposure Shift: allows you to do a permanent type change to all images you take. Say if the camera is always overexposed.
- EV Steps:
- 1/3, 1/2, 1 EV
- ISO Steps:
- 1/3, 1/2, 1 EV
- Auto ISO
- Upper limit / default 6,400 / 200
- Lowest SS setting
- Specific shutter speed.
- Auto (based on reciprocal focal length)
- ISO-Auto
- Available ALL
- Avaialble P,A,S ONLY
- Noise filter (only effect jpg)
- Off, low, standard, high
- Noise Reduction (long exposure) jpg only
- OFF, ON, Auto
- On will cause you to wait an equal amount of time as the exposure itself. Since it’s for jpg only no reason to slow things down.
E2 Exposure / ISO / Bulb / Metering
- Bulb/Time Timer – longest setting available for bulb
- 30 min.
- Bulb/Time Monitor – brightness of LCD when doing long exposures.
- Could be useful when trying to keep your night vision.
- Live Bulb (holding down shutter the whole exposure)
- Variety of settings by seconds.
- Determines how often the live bulb “refreshes” during the shot.
- 2 seconds
- Live Time Mode (press shutter to start, press to stop)
- Variety of settings by seconds.
- Determines how often the live bulb “refreshes” during the shot.
- 2 seconds
- Composite Settings (composites multiple slow shutter speeds to produce final long exposure).
- Variety of settings by seconds.
- Determines how often the live bulb “refreshes” during the shot.
- 2 seconds
E3 Exposure / ISO / Bulb / Metering
- Metering – same as metering options on camera controls
- AEL Metering – sets the AEL button to a specific meter mode when pressed.
- Auto – basically does nothing,, just keeps the mode already selected.
- Spot Metering – links metering area to focus point for spot metering.
- Spot
- Spot Highlights
- Spot Shadow
F Flash Modes
- X-sync – fastest syn mode: 250th
- Slow Limit – 1/15th
- Flash exp. Comp + exp comp. ON/OFF
- Flash WB can auto change wb to flash setting when flash is used ON/OFF
G Quality / WP / Color
- Set Image Quality: Change quality of preset sizes for jpg L-SF, L-F, M-N, S-N
- Pixel Count – change dimensions of middle and small size images.
- Shading Comp. (only jpg)
- Auto vignette fixing.
- ON/OFF
- WB – same as camera controls
- All WB – tweak / shift WB on all settings.
- Keep Warm Colors – when in Auto WB
- ON/OFF
- Color Space
- RGB
- Adobe RGB
H1 Record / Erase
- Card Slot Settings
- Standard – writing only to the designated card of your choice.
- Auto Switch – same as “standard” only it will auto switch to the other card when your first choice fills. (think of it as an “overflow” card).
- Dual Independent (down) – every frame is saved to both cards, but each card can be set to specific size/quality/type (ex: card 1: RAW card2: jpgs and .mov)
- Dual Independent (up) – every frame is saved to both cards, but each card can be set to specific size/quality/type (ex: card 1: RAW card2: jpgs and .mov)
- Dual Same (down) – every frame is saved to both cards, identically. (mirrored cards / backup card)
- Dual Same (up) – every frame is saved to both cards, identically. (mirrored cards / backup card)
- What is this UP/DOWN thing? (designated by an up/down arrow icon on the camera).
- UP means if one card fills the other card can still be written to while DOWN means if one card fills both cards stop writing.
- I personally recommend using Dual Same (up/down doesn’t matter so much),,, but always shooting with a backup is important. Especially if you’re being paid. Should a card ever fail on you you can lose your entire payday and more importantly the images to a once in a lifetime event (example: wedding or your dream vacation).
- With that said due to a need to reduce write times when shooting a lot of high speed series (like sports or events), I will do Dual Independent and save RAW to card 1 and JPG (SF) to card 2.
- This speeds up write times and still gives me a useable backup.
- With that said due to a need to reduce write times when shooting a lot of high speed series (like sports or events), I will do Dual Independent and save RAW to card 1 and JPG (SF) to card 2.
- Photo Save Slot: specify which slot is being used (disabled if using “dual” options above.
- Movie Save Slot: Usually you’ll want to assign video to slot 1 since it can handle faster UHS ii cards.
- Playback Slot: which slot is being played back for viewing.
- Note it’s easier to just switch this while in playback mode (hold down “play” button and turn a dial.
- Assign Save Folder:
- Allows you to create and “save to” folders so you can organize images within your card.
- File Name
- Auto
- Reset
- Edit File Name: allows you to change the naming structure of image files.
- DPI settings: change dpi (dots / inch) when printing directly FROM camera.
- Copyright Settings – ON/OFF
- Artist Name – added into meta data.
- Copyright Name – added into meta data.
- Lens Info Settings – allows you to add lenses to camera that are not digitally compatible (camera cannot talk to it).
- But once added you can add information like focal length and aperture values so the camera can better make decisions about settings with that lens.
H2 Record / Erase
- Quick Erase – ON/OFF
- Do you want to verify deletion when you hit the delete/garbage can button
- RAW+JPG Erase – when set to “raw+jpg” both versions of an image will be erased simultaneously when one is erased.
- Priority Set – YES/NO
- When a delete operation is being confirmed, either the Yes or No button will be highlighted, depending on this setting, so that selecting this answer takes just one button press (selecting the other requires two)
I EVF
- EVF auto switch – ON/OFF – do you want the sensor to auto turn on/off the EVF when your eye is brought to the EVF.
- EVF Adjust:
- EVF auto luminance – ON/OFF – changes the brightness of the EVF based on ambient light that might be coming around the eye. (think how many phones brighten outside).
- Downside to this is that if you are using your EVF to judge exposure of your image this can cause you to make wrong decisions about your image’s current exposure.
- EVF adjust – make permanent brightness decisions about EVF – if you want EVF to always be brighter/darker.
- EVF auto luminance – ON/OFF – changes the brightness of the EVF based on ambient light that might be coming around the eye. (think how many phones brighten outside).
- EVF Style – how do you wish to see information in your EVF when viewing. This is just a matter of personal preference.
Style 1: a narrow, blue strip at the bottom contains all status information; the viewing area is above. In the 3:2 aspect ratio that area fits exactly the remaining space; in 4:3, narrow strips at the left and right remain.
Style 2: like above, except that the status strip is black.
Style 3: the viewing area extends over the whole finder, with the status information superimposed over it.
- Info Settings – yet another place to customize the “info” button (so many now it’s very confusing). To be honest I’m confused about just how this differs from earlier display options. I have played with it and see no difference when I check the different boxes. My guess is one of the other customizations up in “D–LV-Info” menu is somehow superseding this option. (another example of this camera being overly complex).
- Currently I have nothing checked here and still get the same information in my display.
- Basic
- Custom1
- Custom2
- EVF Grid Settings – If you have chosen settings in D3 > grid settings > apply setting to EVF > “ON” this menu option will be greyed out. (or so it is supposed to be… I however have it set to “off” and mine is still greyed out.. So I don’t know what setting is blocking its use.
- Update: If you choose menu I > evf style > 3 Then this option is greyed out because grids are not allowed in “style 3”. So there you have it. I’ve now switched to style 2 and I am able to control grids now.
- Half Way Level – ON/OFF when you press half way on the shutter release the exposure metering is replaced with a level.
- Kind of cool and certain presents no bad side,, so why not give it a try. I know I have a bad habit of “pulling” to one side when I shoot so this can help keep me level when I’m not paying enough attention.
- S-OVF – ON/OFF
- Simulates an optical view finder
- Adjusts brightness in EVF for optimal viewing (but not LCD) This is the primary difference between “s-ovf” and D2>Live view boost which effects both EVF and LCD.
- Good for use with Flash
- No effect if D2 “live view boost” is turned on (ON1 or ON2).
J1 UTILITY
- Pixel Mapping – used to find and map bad pixels on sensor.
- Press and hold Time – How long do you hold a button to be considered a “long press”.
- Example: If using exposure comp and you’re 3 stops under now you wish to go back to “0”. Instead of rolling the dial all the way there you can press/hold “OK” and it will reset to “0”.
- Tip: It’s hard to find all these “press and hold” shortcuts in documentation so you can scan this menu to see all the options available that you likely wouldn’t find on your own.
- Once in here there are 17 options.
- I’m not getting involved with this nightmare. I’m keep the default.
- Level Adjust – used to try and reset the levels if they are having issue.
- Touchscreen Settings – ON/OFF
- Menu Recall – RECALL / RESET allows menu to return to it’s last used position when you press the “menu” button
J2 UTILITY
- Battery Settings
- Battery Priority
- PBH battery (grip)
- Body battery
- Battery Status – information about the battery (serial, charge left, shot count, etc).
- Battery Priority
- Backlit LCD – how long do you want LCD to stay on.
- 8 sec, 30 sec, 1 min, hold (always)
- Sleep: power saving feature. Once camera goes to sleep most features are turned off (like on a computer).
- Touch any button to wake the camera.
- 1, 3, 5 minutes
- Auto Power Off – turns the camera off for real and requires you do switch the power button back to On again to turn on camera.
- 5 min, 30 min, 1 hr , 4hr
- Quick Sleep Mode – When not in Live View camera will sleep using these settings.
- Eye-Fi – settings for eye-fi card use. I don’t use them so have nothing useful to add. This will be greyed out if no eye-fi card inserted.
- Certification – stupid.
Setup Menu:
- Card Setup – format / erase your cards (I recommend always formatting )
- Time/Date: set your time and date on the camera.
- Language:
- LCD brightness:
- Rec View (image review): – Do you want to see your image in your EVF and LCD after you take it?
- Option for how long it will display.
- What is insane is that we cannot split the option of EVF and LCD. I personally would love to have image review on my LCD but NEVER in my EVF.
- As it is, unless you want your EVF cluttered with photos after every shot, you must press “playback” button every time you wish to review an image.
- Wi-Fi Settings:
- Firmware: Shows the version number of the firmware being used by our camera.
- Some tips:
- Make sure you are using the latest “camera updater” version. Old ones don’t work with the OM-D E-M1 Mark II
- Go to Olympus website for free download.
- Remove memory card(s) before updating.
- USB connection may have to be set to “storage” /OK
- Don’t use a USB hub,,, just connect directly to a USB port.
- Make sure you are using the latest “camera updater” version. Old ones don’t work with the OM-D E-M1 Mark II
- Will you lose all your hard won presets during an update?
- NO, the updater will save your presets then reload them automatically after the update.
- With that said I would never trust this so I recommend that you BACKUP YOUR PRESETS anyway prior to updating.
- You really want to do this anyway once you have established your customizations. Just think how much work you have put in to learn this ridiculous camera and select what you want for your settings. Do you ever want to risk losing all that work? Not me.
- How do I backup settings? You can do this through the camera software updater (above).
- Some tips:
Olympus OM-D e-M1 Mark ii – Super Control Menu
This menu is your “quick access” menu to some of the most commonly used features. By clicking the “OK” button inside the arrow control you will bring up the Super control menu (SCM)
- Flash Modes
- Flash exposure comp
- S-IS Auto: –
- s-is – off
- s-is 1 – all stablization on
- s-is 2 – vertical IS
- s-is 3 – horz. IS
- s-is auto –
- M-IS
- m-is 1 – crops in on the image a little bit to increase stabilization
- m-is 2 – full size
- Card Slot Controls
- White Balance
- Might want to consider using “one touch WB” for events.
- AF area
- Focus Modes
- Facial Recognition
- Drive Mode
- Metering Mode
- Image Quality
- Picture Mode (what it does to jpgs)
- Effects
- Aspect Ratio
- will reduce resolution
- Color Space
- Highlights / Shadows (jpg only)
- Video resolution
- shortcut to custom buttons menu
Well, there you have it.
Did that make the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II Menu easy?
hahahaha yea I know… well hopefully this documentation made it a little bit easier than it was.
Good luck!
